Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always defined its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children do not want to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
